A roadtrip story: Barcelona to the south of France

Let me start off by saying that this is a different type of post. Rather than try to do one post per place, this is a compilation, nigh, a cornucopia (whatever dude, it's fall and I can talk about gourds) of places and recommendations. ​

Some background, first. My husband, Elliott, loves to drive in foreign countries. Whether we are renting motorbikes in Vietnam, Riviera Maya or Moorea or renting a car for a quick jaunt, he loves the freedom it gives us. Never have we put a rental car at the center of our trip but this time, we decided to do just that. My typical vacation consists of me having the MOST fun planning an itinerary but leaving the days (with the exception of a hard-to-get-into restaurant) open, so I might explore and adventure. This time, I wanted to plan my husband's dream trip: a European roadtrip, with nothing set in stone. So we booked a flight into Barcelona and out of Nice and we rented a car for those exact dates. Renting a car gave us the independence to do what we wanted and the freedom to visit places that trains or planes might not get us to otherwise.

We stopped in a number of places for varying amounts of time, all of which are mentioned in this entry. The sights ranged from big cities, artistic parks, a 1000 year-old that is a UNESCO World Heritage site, beaches, wine country and yachts. In Spain, we stopped in Barcelona, Costa Brava (Begur, AguiaBlava, Tossa del Mar), Girona and Figures - in that order. In France we spent the entire time in Provence-Alpes- Cote d'Azur including: Arles, Aix- en-Provence, Marseille, Cassis, and Juan-les-Pins (Antibes)- in that order. 
​
While we had a sense of some of the places we wanted to love to stop ahead of time (and a few cancel-able hotels booked along the way), the rest was an adventure. And the result....well, it was perhaps our favorite vacation ever.*

*We say that every time, but this one was truly magical.

Barcelona

Barcelona was our first stop. We had originally planned to end in Barcelona but truly it worked out perfectly this way, instead. By starting in this city we were able to start the trip off with a bang, and kick jet lag by waking up early, walking, enjoying the hustle and bustle (and it allowed us to end our trip much more mellow). 

What a fantastic city. Not overly aggressive as one can feel in Paris (let's say) for the first time. Understanding and speaking Spanish helped us immensely though folks there speak both Spanish and Catalan and talk VERY fast. It takes some concentrating but we found it pretty easy to get around, navigate and have conversations with our mediocre Mexican Spanish. 

We had the most fun just walking around (we got MAD steps in) and stumbling on things ourselves, but here are a few of my favorites.

DO

• Rent your Car: First, get an international drivers license We never used it but it was good to have in our glovebox in case we got stopped for whatever reason (and especially if you don't speak the language). Second, if you are renting a car, do it at the airport either at the beginning of your trip (to save you a trip back to the airport later) or when you leave Barcelona (and go back to the airport to do it). There ARE places to rent a car in the city but the rates we found were MASSIVELY higher than what the airport rates were. If you do it when you land just ensure you are prepared to pay extra if dropping it in another country (like we did), and plan to get insurance. After that, head to your lodging but note that finding a spot on the street in Barcelona is like winning the lotto. After dropping luggage at the hotel, we immediately had to move the car to an underground car park a good walk away. It was 24 hours, slightly pricey, but protected and safe (and gave us a chance to see the area around our hotel). WARNING: Don't speed- Europe (particularly when you get into France) has radar cameras. Rather than getting pulled over for speeding, you will just get ticketed after.
• Wander around El Born and Gothic Quarter: They are both the old parts of town-think dark streets, cute stores, tiny cafes, small pot stores and coffee shops. La Boqueria Market is on the edge of the Gothic Quarter and is worth visiting- it lives up to the hype. Picasso Museum is around there too, though we never made it. 

• La Sagrada Familia: I mean...you have to, right? Gaudi's architecture is like nothing like you think it'll be. Make a timed reservation ahead of time as it gets packed and splurge on the extra few euros for the audio tour. I normally think it's a ripoff but this one actually taught us a TON and was very interesting (plus the English lady VO voice was sultry AF). Even if you have seen churches, this one is different. It's been 150 years in the making and still won't be finished until 2020.

• Park Guell:  One of Gaudi's other spots- a huge park overlooking the entire city. Like the Sagrada, make a timed reservation ahead of time. We walked here for a 12:30 reservation after La Sagrada at 10:30 and the timing couldn't have been more perfect. Then you can score lunch after (remember, the Spanish eat lunch around 2pm). It's a good amount of ground to cover but is really neat to see. At the time of me writing this, there is a large portion under construction/renovation which we knew ahead of time and it didn't impact our ability to enjoy the park (though it did seem to add to the crowds since large areas were cordoned off). After leaving the park, I HIGHLY suggest you walk down towards the city. It's a long walk, but you get your steps in and get to see some really neat neighborhoods along the way (plus the streets around the Park are small and very congested with buses, Ubers and taxis dropping people off). 

STAY

• Casa Bonay: A lovely hotel just above El Born. I originally at had looked at a few other spots in the heart of Born but landed on this due to the fact that it was a tad outside of the touristy neighborhoods. Real people lived in the area just above our hotel and it was walkable to everything we wanted to see (and far enough away from the tourist clusterfuck of Las Ramblas). We did not use our rental car once, nor metro, Uber...nothing. We used our legs and this hotel was a perfect jumping off point. It has a wonderful restaurant and bar, a delicious coffee shop (Satan's Coffee Corner) and some of the nicest people. It also has a kickass rooftop- one side is for the public with a bar, and the other side is for guests only and boasts some nice seating areas, killer views and a garden for lounging. 

• Hotel Musik: We almost stayed here because of it's location. It looked great, was on a killer street in El Born and had wonderful reviews. Check it out if you want to stay in the heart of El Born.
• Serras: If you are into something slightly more 5-star and want to stay outside of the hustle and bustle, this might be a good option for you to look into. It's got great reviews from trusted resources when I was planning our trip, including a friend of mine stayed here and said the customer service was superb. We wanted something a little more central, but this place looks superb IRL (online and based on our walk-by). 

EAT

• Pan de tomate: It's a local tapa specific to the Catalan region and should be ordered EVERYWHERE you can. Essentially it's warm ciabatta bread with garlic and tomato rubbed on it when hot, then sprinkled with salt. It sounds boring but truly may be one of the best things I've ever eaten. 
  
• 7 Portes: Near the port, and just about as old school as you can get. Founded in 1836 this is the ONLY place to get paella. Certainly on the high-end, we went for lunch rather than dinner where we shared one paella and it was breathtaking. If you don't have a reservation (we didn't) and have to wait, head just around the corner to Bodega Vidrios y Cristales for a glass of wine. 
• Libertine: It's within Casa Bonay and great for a snack and drink. It turns into a locals hot spot at night so be prepared to squeeze up at the bar or make friends with a stranger and plop down at their table. 

• El Nacional: A gigantic establishment housing a number of restaurants and bars under one roof. The idea is that visitors can have one place to go to try dishes from all around the area. It's absolutely stunning inside with industrial architecture, interesting lighting and plants hanging everywhere.  The closest thing I can think of comparing it to in America is Eataly, though it's not as focused on being a retail establishment. We ate at the Taperia which was phenomenal- note that if you want tapas, the waiters just walk around screaming with platters and you raise your hand when you want them to stop by your table. It was fun and delicious. 

• Tierra Mia: If you walk from La Sagrada to Park Guell like we did, you might need a snack in-between. We popped into this little place for a bite before heading to the park and it had a lovely outdoor garden to sit in.
• El Quim: Located in Boqueria market I was harassed incessantly by a friend I trust implicitly to go here for their seafood, but sadly we never made it as it was closed the day we went to the market. It's known by anyone interested in food and apparently the octopus is the go-to which  I was down to try (even despite the great octopus ordeal that went down for my sister in Tulum that haunts me just a tiny smidge every time I see one). 

DRINK

• ​Story Cafe: Well you must drink their local specialty when in Barcelona, vermut, and this is the place to do it. The vermut was great but the ambiance was....on fleek. It's hidden and it's charming. Please go.

• Casa Bonay​: If you are not staying there, head up to the roof for a drink. If you are, bring a drink to the rooftop and just relax with views of the city. 

Costa Brava

Well, I guess we are moving here. Everyone keeps asking what the favorite part of our trip was and while it's hard to answer because everything we did was so different, this might be the closest to "favorite" we had. WARNING: The Costa Brava is enormous and it would take a long time to stop in every coastal village along it. But after a ton of research, we decided to stop in Tossa del Mar for lunch and Aguiablava for the night, though Cadaques (namely Roses), was a close contender and is definitely on the list for next time. We'll most certainly be back and/or move all of our shit there and live. 

When drivgin out of Barcelona, you will start to see Spanish flags disappear and Catalan flags everywhere. You will also see tiny yellow ribbons tied to everything - they signify Catalan independence and apparently a law has been passed that they cannot be taken down (people were going around and ripping them down). It's a constant reminder of the struggle they are going through in self-identity in this part of Spain. 

DO:

• Drive and give yourself time: Try to drive along the coastal route as much as you can to see it and give yourself time. It's windy and reminiscent of the coast up to Big Sur, but on a whole other level. Leave a few days to explore. We truly could've had a week exploring all of the little spots.

• Stop in Tossa del Mar: There is a castle/fort? On the beach? What? We only stopped for lunch (a cute oceanfront spot that is among a zillion along that stretch) but it certainly looked darling enough to park it for a day on the beach or walk up to the fort. 

STAY:

• Hotel Aguia Blava: Holy. Shit. Stay here, live here, wash dishes here, whatever. It's the most darling place after a long days drive. It's got ping pong tables. It's got a pool. It's got tennis courts. It's got a tiny beach. It's got views overlooking the most insane bay. It's got a decent restaurant (also it's isolated so unless you're into driving or walking at night, that's where you are eating). Go go go go go. And don't skimp on the room- you only want ocean views, here. If you opt for the cheapys, you'll be up the parking lot looking at concrete meanwhile the rest of us will be down by the water having our breath taken away by the views...and maybe a topless local sunbather? (#naughty) Also explore the walkways around the hotel- we found a hidden tunnel, hidden pathways, beautiful rocky cliffs to enjoy wine with not a soul in sight. Truly a magical place.

Girona

DAYYUMMM, HISTORY. This place is old and cool AF. If you like: Game of Thrones, medieval shit, and tight glutes, look no further. Girona is an old ass city in Begur (inland from the Costa Brava) full of lots of stairs, tiny streets, and makes a perfect jumping off point to drive into France. 

DO:

• Walk walk walk walk. Everything cool (old town, especially) is up a hill fully of twists and turns and is best seen explored on foot, wandering and getting lost. 
• Check out the Cathedral: It's at the top of 80 something stairs and is truly Gothic-style (nothing like the Sagrada) with a dark interior and internal outside pathways. For those GOT nerds, it's also where Jamie Lannister walked a horse up, apparently (on the subject of GOT nerds, there are loads of other spots for you to check out in Girona, and you can find a zillion blogs like this one that tell you everything you need to know.

• Walk the walls: These walls span a large chunk of Girona old town. We started by the Cathedral and walked down to the other end- lots of ups and downs and turrets, it's a really cool way to see the city! 

DON'T:

• Don't be a dumb driver. Don't try to drive into the old part of the city and park. Nope. Only local cars are allowed. Plan to park at one of the 24 hour, underground parking lots down in the main city and trekking up to anything cool. If you have luggage, either drop it off and go park OR plan to trek it and just keep in mind it's a hike up cobblestone stairs, down small alleys, etc. (we did the latter and I almost killed my husband). Upon leaving, we DID drive up to the hotel briefly to pick up our luggage upon checking out but spent the time dodging humans, bikers and fitting our rental car through tunnels one pinkie length away from the wall, so it's not for the faint of heart. 
• Don't stop paying attention when walking! This town is loved by bikers who regularly barrel down streets on their bicycles. 
• Don't visit for the river. It's meh and although online you'll see some mildly doctored photos of it, it's pretty but its nothing like Ghent.

STAY:

• Hotel Historic: I looked at a ton of hotels before choosing this one and am so glad I did. This property was built in the 8th century - not 18th- and is old, cool and right next to the Cathedral. It's a challenge to get to but the building unless you are ready for an adventure but the old rooms (with minor updates) really made it a fun adventure. I also read somewhere this was Lance Armstrong's spot to stay during the Tour de France (for better for a worse). They have a great breakfast, cool rooftop (which no one used when we were there so we just had beers and read in private) and a neat history. WARNING: If cathedral bells annoy you, don't stay here. They go off all night and we found it cool and slept through them, but wanted you to know. 

EAT:

• Cafe le Bistrot: OMFG I was obsessed with this street. We only went for a nightcap but if you can snag a table outside looking up the insane stairwell to the Church of Sant Marti, DO IT.

• Cafe Context Liberia: On a darling square, this is a cafe inside of a bookstore. We had a lovely meal here AND got to wander around a bookstore! 

• Anywhere on the Rambla for a decent meal, crowds and people watching. We had one decent lunch here but preferred the smaller spots, deeper into old town. 

Figures

This is where Dali grew up and was a great stop on the way over to France.

DO:

• We did one thing here: Dali. Visit the Teatro-Museo Dali for a weird hour or two. 

Aix-en-Provence

Ca--uuuuute. Provence technically is huge and Aix was our second stop and special enough to mention a couple key things.

DO:

• Stop in Arles on your way in - the city is gorgeous, it's where Van Gogh lived (AND the square where he painted "Cafe Terrace at Night"), there are ruins and great streets for wandering. Also, eat at Cafe Factory Republique- a coffee shop, brewery and restaurant, it's the perfect spot for a bite. If the owner of this place doesn't make you melt and want to come back to Arles immediately and live with him, you are dead inside.​

• Once you make it to Aix, walk around downtown - there are loads of streets to discover.
• Call it Aix as in "X" to sound like, really smart. Otherwise you sound like an American dweeb like me (also, you'll have to pay me 14 million euro before I ever say "Arles" in public). 

STAY:

• Hotel Le Pigonnet: No ifs, ands or buts. This is a converted manor from the 1800's that Cezanne used to paint at. French country chic and truly beautiful with gardens, a pool, sculptures, water fountains, exquisite service and rooms with balconies overlooking the grounds (if you get lucky!). They have a very popular restaurant with a larger terrace, a great bar (ask for Mikael to make you cocktails!) and is only a 10 minute walk into the heart of town. Highly recommended- get room service breakfast and look over the garden.

EAT:

• El Primo: Locals spot for wine and tapas on a tiny street. Sit outside and enjoy. 

• ​Chez Jo: Recommended by our bartender where he goes on date night with his wife, this is a really sweet pizza spot on a small square. Filled with locals, I had the best salad nicoise of my life here. 

Marseille

Our stop after Aix, we went to Marseille. This town historically hasn't had that good of a reputation as  it is a port city, harsh, graffiti-ridden, but it's really worth a visit (you've probably seen it in one of the more touching episodes of Anthony Bourdain's "Parts Unknown"). We stopped to visit my French dad (not really, but kinda). I promise you, if you take the time to visit, oh the special gems you will find-having a local tour guide helps, too!

DO:

• Walk around the port, check out the ships and have a drink!
• Drive outside along the coast to coast route to Calanque de Sormiou - if the winds aren't too strong. you can pop down to the restaurant on the shore.

• Visit Notre Dame de la Garde, the beautiful church on top of the hill that gives you 360 degree views of the city. 
• At sunset, head to the Park Emlia de Klux with your lover and/or a bottle of rose for some breathtaking sights.

STAY:

• New Hotel of Marseille- In a fantastic location, walking distance to the park and port, it's the perfect spot to crash for a night. Get a 4th floor room with views of the fort. 

EAT:

• La Femina Chez Kachetel- Our friends brought us to a local cous cous place just a few streets off the port and in addition to being colorful and warm, it was absolutely delicious. The waiter brought me the lamb special he had just served to Anthony Bourdain on his last visit to France. 

Cassis

This was a stop we made between Marseille and Antibes for one thing: to hike to Calanque d'En-Vau which was a hike like no hike we'd been on before. It's long, you need water and you need time, but it's worth the sweat and sore calves the next day. Bring and/or wear a swimsuit and try to get there no later than noon so you can beat the crowds and see the Calanque in the midday light. 

Juan-les-Pins (Antibes)

The perfect way to end your journey is here. A calm, small town in Antibes (just below Nice), it is a perfect place to put your feet up and relax before heading home. 

DO:

• Wander around the city- there are shops, approachable cafes and beaches to explore everywhere.
• Read a book. 
• Walk up to Cap d'Eden Roc to see some small coves and public baths filled with locals and tourists, alike. 

STAY:

• Hotel Belles Rives- Impeccable service, breathtaking views and delicious cocktails and food, the former home of F. Scott Fitzgerald is truly a delight. Not only is there a tiny beach and beach club with a darling pier, but they have live music in the evenings, and the most wonderful people. definitely get a room with a balcony overlooking the ocean.

We returned our car from here and headed home. Expect to pay a pretty fee for returning your car in a different country but you won't even care. This trip was once in a lifetime and I wish you all of the same fun and adventure we had.